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When purchasing, primarily use the "Look, Feel, Spin, Check" method.
Look at the Packaging and Appearance
Color & Texture: Genuine bearings have a uniform steel color (deep gray or black, depending on the anti-rust treatment) and a high-quality feel.
Markings: Brand names, model numbers, etc., etched on the bearing should be clear, fine, and even. Counterfeit markings are often shallow, blurred, or show signs of etching.
Anti-rust Oil: Genuine bearings are coated with a clear, uniform anti-rust oil. Counterfeits may use inferior, sticky, or pungent oil.
Packaging: Genuine bearing boxes have clear printing and are made of sturdy material. The box should have clear product numbers, batch codes, and brand logos. Counterfeit products often have blurry printing and flimsy, thin boxes.
Surface Finish:
Feel the Surface and Seals
Smoothness: Gently run your finger over the bearing surface and its corners. A genuine product feels smooth and refined, with no burrs or roughness.
Seals: This is critical. Genuine seals are made of soft, flexible material and fit tightly and flush against the bearing housing. Counterfeit seals are often made of harder rubber, may be installed unevenly, or can even feel loose. Press gently on them to feel the rebound elasticity.
Spin and Listen
Quickly spin the outer ring of the bearing by hand.
Good Bearing: Spins smoothly, freely, without binding. It should make only a subtle "whirring" sound and come to a gradual stop.
Bad Bearing: May feel gritty, bind, or make a pronounced "rumbling" or "grating" noise. It may stop erratically.
Note: New sealed bearings will have slightly more resistance due to seal lip contact—this is normal.
Check Identification and Source
Price: Prices significantly below market average are often counterfeit.
Supplier: Buy from authorized brand distributors or reputable stores.
Completeness of Parts: Check if all necessary accessories are included, such as new axle nuts and washers.
